The following is the log of a trip taken by David B & Roger C in a Wayfarer on 13th - 14th June 2003

Friday 13th June - I collect David at Central Station at 7.15am with the intention of leaving Greencastle, Co. Donegal, at high tide Dover 10.32am. The sailing instructions give this as the best time to leave Lough Foyle for Malin to take best advantage of the tidal streams along the Inishowen coast. With a forecast of S/SW 3-4 and fairing weather I hope that the big spring tides will not create problems by setting wind against tide.

We catch the Magilligan to Greencastle ferry at 9.00 in time to watch the ebb tide boiling around the point throwing up 2ft waves as it passes the ferry. In mid channel the water is a flat river flowing out to sea.

We are in Greencastle with time to visit the local shop for a coffee and to find the telephone number of a taxi firm On the pier we gain a little local tidal information from an apparently helpful fisherman. Our advisor maintains that we will have a great time and no problems on the passage to Culdaff. Experience has taught me to take encouraging advice on shore with more than a little scepticism.

We leave the harbour entrance at 10.15am with a 3 knot tide and SW F3 behind us. Quickly and effortlessly the Foyle slips into our wake as the sun shines over the flat water. We gybe and are soon past Warren Point and rounding Dunagree Point (a distance sailed of 3.5 miles) with its distinctive, prominent lighthouse. We point North for Inishowen Head and reach for another mile only to find as we round it that the wind is from the North West, meeting the ebb tide, and throwing up a steep sea.

We are faced with a 9-mile beat into a steady F3-4 westerly wind and counter tide to reach Culdaff. The sea is suddenly steep and difficult, the coast ironbound by cliffs. The nearest landfall, Kinnego Bay, is 5 miles distant. We have no option but to continue as the ebb from the Foyle is still flowing strongly preventing our return us for some time yet. In any case the sailing is exhilarating. We set our minds to a tough beat punching our way into steep seas and occasionally falling with a great crash into troughs and holes in the sea. Frequently water washes back over the foredeck only to be deflected by the washboards. No human habitation overlooks our struggle; there are no boats to be seen. We feel lonely and exposed with only Gulls for company. We had set the jib and tucked a reef into the main when leaving Greencastle - the boat is not over pressed and we don't have to hike out. To reef in these conditions would be unpleasant! The grey skies emphasise our isolation and the seriousness of the situation.

With relief we open Kinnego Bay with its beautiful sandy beach and the prospect of safety. A shaft of sunlight illuminates the sheltered Western end of the strand - the water looks flat. We consider the possibility of landing to survey the possibility of recovering the boat from the beach or at least having lunch and giving the sea time to settle. Indecision rules… it is a difficult one to call. If we continue and the wind rises, conditions could become very unpleasant; if the wind drops we will feel cheated. It is about now that David informs me that he obtained a forecast of W F4-5 just before he left home; this would make things very uncomfortable as we would have a huge beat to Culdaff with wind over tide.

We land on sand amid a slight swell and immediately decide to continue. We sail back out and again change our mind and run back into the bay surfing down the waves while being pushed onto rocks by the W going tide. Finally we make our decision and beat on down the coast into steep intimidating seas.

By Tremone Bay, 3 miles on, things are beginning to settle and we have time to enjoy the view of a sandy beach protected by a barrier of rocks. The tide is slacker and the seas begin to flatten. The sun comes out and the boat flies along in more settled water. By the time we leave Tremone bay in our wake we are beginning to relax.

Five miles further on we open Culdaff Bay in bright sunlight and swell-free water. A sharp gust catches us from nowhere and reminds us to stay alert. We beat in onto the beach and land at low tide on sand beside the pier.

We lunch and relax in the sun while I await the arrival of a taxi to transport one of us back to Greencastle to collect the car and trailer. Distance sailed over the ground 12 miles - probably 18 miles given the beating and fun off Kinnego Bay.

We spend an enjoyable and reasonable night in beautiful surroundings in Trean House at Tremone Bay- an old farmhouse sympathetically renovated and set in unfussy gardens of fruit trees and bushes.

After an excellent meal washed down with Guinness at McCrorys I walk the beach at Tremone Bay a tranquil shadow of its former stormy self.

Next morning we are on Culdaff Pier shortly after 9.00am. Conditions are perfect with bright sunlight and S F3. We get considered advice from a local boatman who advises waiting until 11.00am to catch the West going tide. Careful reading of the tidal flows convinces me to leave as soon as possible and use the eddy along the rocks - this we do; after all we both have to be back in Belfast by 7.00pm!

With the wind on our stern the boat goes like a train out of the bay towards Glengad Head. The tidal information is correct. As we approach the head (3.5 miles) the wind begins to drop, we shake out our reef, and the breeze promptly goes round to the North West. We find ourselves beating in light airs round the head with little help from the tide. I sail in towards the rocks in the hope of picking up an eddy and we find ourselves covering the ground well in very light airs indeed.

The next 7 miles are a series of ironbound bays with steep ground falling to a jagged, rocky foreshore. There is little prospect of landing although the cliffs are climbable. Today, however, our worries are not about survival.

David takes the helm to allow me to paddle during the lulls as the wind has dropped to virtually nothing. By keeping tight on the rocks we are amazed at the progress we make along this inhospitable coast. It is hot work in the blazing sun but the unseen help of the tide is a great encouragement. We paddle and sail the bulk of way, until the dramatic bulk of Stookaruddan is within our reach.

With no prospect of wind I break out the oars fearing the loss of what little breeze there is as we round the rock. Using the lightest of airs we row and sail toward the "loaf shaped" Stookaruddan.

Suddenly we have in our sights Lackgolana (Saddle Rock) 2 mile distant and by rowing, sailing and using the tide we close Malin Harbour in seemingly no time at all.

As the breeze picks up we decide to go inside Saddle Rock - which pays off - but only just - the chart is rather generous with the depth at low tide springs!

Outside, in the Garvan Sound, the tide is boiling West between the Garvan Islands and the low lying Rossnabartan.

We land on the sand beside the slip at 1.00pm. I hitch a lift from Sean, a diver from Dublin who has driven up that day in his BMW 5 series and who has already completed a dive. This is one attraction of "pier hopping" - the chance encounter. Sean and I have a great chat about his forthcoming marriage (due to take place the following Saturday) diving, business, Christmas etc. and I am back at the car by 2.00pm. We have covered a mere 11 miles over the ground.

With the boat packed we leave the pier at Bulbinbeg and follow the road round Malin Head past Babta's Crown, Irelands North point. From the viewpoint above Ineuran Head we look south along White Strand Bay and pick out the waves breaking on the Bar at the entrance to Trawbreagh Bay. Further South the golden sands of Pollan Bay lead the eye to yet another beach - Tullagh Bay and on South and West to the massive bulk of Dunaff Head guarding the entrance to Lough Swilly. To the West Fanad Head, Mulroy, and, faint in the far distance, Horn Head excite our imagination for the next leg of our journey.

As we drive home we reflect that 21 miles in two days is not much ground to cover - twice that could comfortably be sailed in a good day. But why would we want to do that? Would our adventure not be over all the quicker? Would we not miss the "craic" which a more leisurely approach encourages? To sail past long stretches of interesting coast without taking the time to investigate bay, pier and harbour (not to mention public house) would sacrifice curiosity to haste.

I drop David at Central Station Belfast at 6.00pm.

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